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Wie die Savanne Afrikas: Ausblick beim Abstieg vom Mount Sonder. Foto: Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Zu Fuß im Outback Wüstenwunderweg: Wandern im Herzen Australiens Wer die Quintessenz des Outbacks erleben will, wandert den Larapinta Trail. Der Fernwanderweg führt durch ein uraltes Gebirge mit Trockenbusch, Schluchten und Naturpools. Pilgerreise ins rote Zentrum. Seit Stunden trotten die Wanderer bergauf, über ihnen leuchtet ein fantastischer Sternenhimmel. Manche sind seit Wochen mit schwerem Rucksack unterwegs, andere ein paar Tage mit leichtem Gepäck. Aber alle haben das gleiche Ziel: zum Sonnenaufgang auf dem Gipfel des Mount Sonder stehen.
Der nächtliche Aufstieg ist das Finale dieser sehr australischen Pilgerreise. 230 Kilometer weit führt der Larapinta Trail von der Wüstenstadt Alice Springs durch die West MacDonnell Ranges, eine Bergkette im roten Herz des Kontinents.
Die erste Etappe wurde schon 1990 eröffnet, aber es sollte noch mal zwölf Jahre dauern, bis der gesamte Trail durch Weg den West-MacDonnell-Nationalpark vollendet war. Heute gilt er als einer der schönsten Wanderwege Australiens – und als einer der härtesten.
An diesem Morgen drängen sich rund 30 Wanderer auf dem Gipfel. Sie plaudern, trinken Kaffee aus Thermoskannen und fotografieren sich gegenseitig, als die ersten Sonnenstrahlen über den Horizont blitzen.
«Ein vergleichsweise ruhiger Tag», sagt Tash Loh, oft seien 50 Leute hier oben. Die 28-Jährige arbeitet als Guide für einen der zwölf Veranstalter, die geführte Touren mit Gepäcktransport anbieten. Meist führt sie die sechstägige Kurzversion, konzentriert auf die schönsten Abschnitte.
Wie die Savanne Afrikas Warum diese Touren so gut gebucht werden, sieht man auch auf dem langen Abstieg über den Rücken des Mount Sonder. Die endlose Ebene ringsum erinnert mit den vereinzelten Akazien an die Savanne Afrikas, die rotglühenden Hügelketten an eine Prozession von Gürteltieren.
Einst waren sie tausende Meter hohe Gebirge, ihr Gestein ist 800 Millionen Jahre alt. Die Schichten von Sandstein, Gneis und Kalkstein waren vor Urzeiten Sedimente am Grund eines Binnenmeers, die durch Plattenverschiebungen aufgefaltet wurden. Das Polieren erledigten Wind und Regen. «Die Berge Australiens sind nicht so dramatisch wie der Himalaya», sagt Loh, «aber sie sind auf andere Weise beeindruckend.»
Die Großstädter an der Küste sahen sie das erste Mal im Jahr 1938, als Albert Namatjira in Melbourne seine Wasserfarben-Gemälde ausstellte. Die Ausstellung des indigenen Künstlers war eine Sensation, die Bilder waren bald ausverkauft.
Dass Namatjira nicht schönte und übertrieb, sehen die Wanderer schon am Ende der ersten Etappe am Simpsons Gap. In einem Wasserloch spiegeln sich die roten Wände der Schlucht und die bleichen Stämme der Eukalypten. Eine perfekte Kulisse für Influencer, die den Weg in den vergangenen Jahren populär gemacht haben.
Viele unterschätzen den Trail «Vor 20 Jahren wanderten nur erfahrene Bushwalker den Larapinta Trail», sagt John, mit Mitte 70 der älteste in der Gruppe. «Jetzt steht er auf der Wunschliste vieler Aussies, und manche unterschätzen ihn.» Allein die Hitze macht vielen zu schaffen. Drei bis vier Liter Wasser trägt man deshalb jeden Tag im Rucksack – und einen Hut mit breiter Krempe auf dem Kopf.
Sonnenaufgang am Mount Sonder. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Morgenstimmung auf dem Larapinta Trail: im Sonnenaufgang glühende Hügelketten. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Lektion am Wegesrand: Tash Loh erklärt die Geologie der MacDonell Ranges. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Auf der dritten Etappe steigt man aus der schmalen Schlucht Standley Chasm über steile Felstreppen mehrere Scharten empor. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Gewächse wie zu Zeiten der Dinosaurier: Riesige Palmfarne in der Schlucht des Inarlanga-Passes. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Am Inarlanga Pass grenzen die Gebiete zweier Stämme aneinander. Vor dem Durschschreiten mussten Jäger und Händler früher um Erlaubnis fragen. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Auch Kraxeln ist gefragt - wie hier auf dem Abschnitt am Inarlanga Pass. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
46 planierte Stellen gibt es am Larapinta Trail, wo man sein Zelt aufschlagen kann. Counts Point ist eine davon. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Schlucht und Wasserloch: Die schönste Tageswanderung ist der Ormiston Pound Walk. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Blütenpracht am Wüstenweg: Hier leuchten blühende Mulla Mullas in der Morgensonne. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Übernachten im Safarizelt: Das Ormiston Camp liegt an einem trockenen Flusslauf. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Angekommen an der Glen Helen Gorge: Landschaften wie solche hielt der Maler Namatjiras fest. Florian Sanktjohanser/dpa-tmn
Wer die Quintessenz des Outbacks erleben will, wandert den Larapinta Trail. Pilgerreise ins rote Zentrum. dpa-infografik GmbH/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Schatten ist rar im Trockenbusch aus kleinwüchsigen Mallee-Eukalyptus-Sträuchern. Die bleichen Büschel der Spinifex-Gräser stechen durch Kleidung. Und sobald der Wind nachlässt, greifen die Fliegen an, landen in Nase und Ohren. An einem Tag habe sie einmal sechs Fliegen geschluckt, sagt Loh.
Und das Red Centre ist manchmal auch im australischen Winter grüner als erwartet. Sturt's Desert Roses blühen lilafarben, Umbrella Wattles tragen gelbe Blütenbällchen. 600 Pflanzenarten leben in der Halbwüste. «Die Blumen hier sind Opportunisten», sagt Loh, «sie blühen, wenn es geregnet hat.»
Die Höhenmeter sind stets überschaubar, aber manche Abschnitte sind fordernd. Auf der dritten Etappe steigt man aus der schmalen Schlucht Standley Chasm, wo sich die Ausflügler tummeln, über steile Felstreppen mehrere Scharten empor, Kamelbuckel genannt, und danach jeweils in den nächsten Felskessel.
Die Mitwanderer schnaufen, aber die Kulisse lohnt jede Mühe. Ghost Gums - Myrtengewächse mit glattem, weißem Stamm - krallen sich in die roten Felswände. Auf den Hängen wachsen Palmfarne, Überlebende einer Ära, in der Australien wesentlich regenreicher war. Und am Wegesrand sitzen zutrauliche Rotschopftauben mit hellblauem Gesicht und hohem Kamm.
Auch für Australier eine mythische Wildnis Selbst für Australier ist das Outback eine fremde, mythische Wildnis geblieben. Viele Orte am Weg sind den Arrernte, die seit vielen Jahrtausenden hier leben, heilig. Infotafeln erklären ihre kulturgeschichtliche Bedeutung.
Am Inarlanga Pass etwa grenzen die Gebiete zweier Stämme aneinander, vor dem Durschschreiten mussten Jäger und Händler früher um Erlaubnis fragen. «Das war ein wichtiger zeremonieller Ort», erklärt Loh, Zelten sei hier tabu.
Ihren Gästen kann das egal sein. Sie schlafen komfortabel in Safarizelten an einem ausgetrockneten Flussbett und genießen abends ein mehrgängiges Dinner am Lagerfeuer. Wer auf eigene Faust unterwegs ist, rollt am Ende jeder Etappe in einem Unterstand Schlafsack und Isomatte aus – oder auf einem der vielen Zeltplätzen dazwischen.
Duschen gibt es dort nicht - aber Wasserlöcher wie die Glen Helen Gorge: eine Bresche in der roten Zyklopenmauer, die zusammen mit dem Blau des Sees und dem Grün des Schilfs wirkt wie ein Gemälde Namatjiras.
Das Wasser ist tief und klar, und über dem grandiosen Naturpool ragen zerklüftete Klippen und Felstürme auf. Die Arrernte erzählten sich, dass eine riesige Schlange den See bewacht. Mag sein, denkt sich der selig schwimmende Europäer – zumindest für Krokodile ist das Wasser zu kalt.
Links, Tipps, Praktisches: Reiseziel: Alice Springs liegt im Zentrum Australiens, die West MacDonnell Ranges ziehen sich von der Stadt westwärts.
Reisezeit: Von April bis Mitte September ist die beste Zeit zum Wandern. Davor und danach ist es sehr heiß. Nachts sinken die Temperaturen im Juni und Juli manchmal unter null Grad.
Einreise: Deutsche brauchen einen Reisepass, der noch sechs Monate gültig ist, sowie ein Visum. Dieses kann online beantragt werden (Subclass 651 eVisitor ).
Gesundheitshinweise: Es sind keine Impfungen vorgeschrieben.
Währung: Restaurants und Hotels sind etwas teurer als in Deutschland. Derzeit ist der Wechselkurs günstig: 1 Australischer Dollar entspricht 61 Euro-Cent (Stand: 13.11.2024).
Zeitverschiebung: Alice Springs ist 7:30 Stunden vor Deutschland, in unserer Winterzeit 8:30 Stunden.
Anreise: Mehrere Airlines bieten Flüge mit einem Zwischenstopp in die Metropolen Australiens. Von dort fliegt man weiter nach Alice Springs.
Unterkunft: Am Ende jeder der zwölf Etappen gibt es einen Unterstand, wo man seine Isomatte ausrollen, Wasser zapfen und eine Komposttoilette benutzen kann. Dazwischen beherbergen Dutzende Zeltplätze ihre Gäste. Wer eine Tour mit Guide und Verpflegung bucht, übernachtet in Camps mit Safarizelten.
Wandern: Schilder mit blauen Dreiecken markieren den Weg. Da die parallel verlaufende Straße zu einigen Schluchten führt, kann man auch einzelne Abschnitte gehen. Die schönste Tageswanderung ist der Ormiston Pound Walk. Firmen wie Larapinta Trek Support, Larapinta Express oder 100 % Adventure chauffieren Wanderer und deponieren Vorräte in Schiffscontainern entlang des Trails. Über die Nationalpark-Homepage buchen Wanderer die erforderliche Erlaubnis und Zeltplätze vorab. Wer sich das Organisieren sparen möchte, bucht eine Tour bei einem Veranstalter wie Trek Larapinta oder Australian Walking Holidays.
Weitere Auskünfte: northernterritory.com
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