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Traumhafte Strände findet man im Osten der Insel wie hier in Foulpointe
Alternativen zu Asien, Teil 2 Madagaskar: Lemuren, Vanille und Baobabs In unserer letzten Ausgabe stellten wir Ihnen die mexikanische Pazifikküste als Alternative zu Asien vor. Dieses Mal empfehlen wir Ihnen das exotische Madagaskar – den »sechsten Kontinent«. Madagaskar! Land von Lemuren, Vanille und Baobab-Bäumen. Die riesige Insel ist ein Schmelztiegel aus Afrika und Ozeanien. Und nicht nur das: Einwanderer aus Asien haben Reisterrassen und Auslegerboote »mitgebracht«. Endlich ist auch der Flug erschwinglicher: Gut 700 Euro statt über 1.000. Wer mal zwei Wochen reinschnuppern will, für den bieten sich die Hauptstadt Antanarivo (Tana) und das 340 Kilometer entfernte Tamatave an der Ostküste mit Stränden und ein paar Inselchen an.
Für die 28 Kilometer vom Airport nach Tana suche ich mir kein langweiliges Taxi, sondern einen französischen Oldie, einen 2CV. Vorher in Ruhe orientieren! Am Flughafen gibt es Geldautomaten, Stadtplan und heimische SIM-Karte gratis. Die klapprige »Ente« ist gut 40 Jahre alt, der Fahrer 60, hat sechs Zähne und ist sehr hilfsbereit. Er hilft mir sofort, als ich in meinem schlechten Französisch erkläre, den Schlüssel zu meinem kleinen Vorhängeschloss der Reisetasche verbummelt zu haben. Mit einem rostigen Sägeblatt löst er das Problemchen in fünf Minuten. Ich bitte um diverse Fotostopps. Zebus und Landarbeiter waten in Reisfeldern. Ochsen und Menschen ziehen Karren mit Zement, Bananen und Reissäcken. Minibusse überholen hupend.
In der City: Schneckentempo! Händler klopfen ans Fenster, offerieren Wasser, Sonnenbrillen, Kabel. Weil auch auf Straße und Bürgersteig ambulante Händler lagern, ist das 1.400 Meter hoch gelegene Tana durch Staus und Abgase geplagt. Da helfen auch Trillerpfeifen und Armfuchteln der vielen Ordnungshüter nicht.
Die Insel Madagaskar – lange von Frankreich abhängig – hat wenige Touristen. Die lange Anreise, frühere politische Unruhen, Schlaglochpisten und die Gefahr von Gewalt sind die Gründe. Globetrotter und Backpacker haben so ein Heimspiel. Mit Umsicht, Geduld, Toleranz und ein paar Brocken Französisch lässt es sich meist problemlos und unterhaltsam reisen.
Ein bisschen versteckt in Wildnis und geschützten Parks leben die Stars der Insel: die Lemuren. Bis zu 80 Arten soll es im Land geben – und nur hier. Natürlich nehme ich mir wieder eine »Ente« mit Fahrer und zahle für die insgesamt 60 Kilometer und vier Stunden zum Parque de lémuriens 30 Euro. Einige Lemuren, Schwarzweiße Vari, sitzen drei Meter entfernt auf einem Ast am Fluss. Ihre Kulleraugen sind auf uns gerichtet. »Alle diese Tiere scheuen das Wasser«, sagt Führer Hanja Ramahefa. In ihrer verbliebenen unberührten Heimat, vor allem den Wäldern in den Küstenregionen, sind Lemuren viel schwieriger zu sichten.
Ich will nun an die Ostküste. Zu Pirateninseln, hellen Stränden, Mangroven, Fischerdörfern. Eine Kanalfahrt machen. Mein Minibus-Ticket habe ich schon gestern in Tana beim Unternehmen Cotisse gekauft, um einen guten, elektronisch bestätigten Sitzplatz zu bekommen. Es ist 6:30 morgens. Ich schaue mir das Reifenprofil an und den Zustand vom Taxi Brousse, einem Mercedes Benz. Alles okay. Gut sieben Stunden dauert die Fahrt durch Berge und Täler in die Hafenstadt Toamasina (Tamatave).
Heute ist Sonntag, also Familientag. Ich buche für € 1,50 die Stunde ein Pousse pousse, ein Pedal- Dreirad mit Fahrer. Insulaner mit Kind und Kegel picknicken am Beach und müllen kräftig. Eine etwa 70-Jährige öffnet gekonnt Kokosnüsse mit wuchtigen Machetenschlägen. Fischer ziehen ihre Netze ein. In unzähligen Buden fließen Bier und Limo in Strömen. Auf einem Rummelplatz freuen sich Kinder über eine Fahrt in einem sechs, sieben Meter hohen »Riesenrad«. Auf einem nahen, überdachten modernen Markt feilschen Kreuzfahrt-Touristen aus Italien, Spanien und Deutschland um Vanille, Pfeffer, Schnitzereien und T-Shirts. Zwei, drei Kreuzfahrtschiffe pro Monat steuern Tamatave derzeit an – man hofft auf mehr.
Türkisfarbenes Wasser, hohe Palmen, feinsandige, helle Strände, üppige Blütenpracht: Das ist Sainte Maire, auch Nosy Boraha genannt, weiter nordöstlich. Auf der ehemaligen Pirateninsel geht es sehr ruhig zu. Kein Verkehrslärm, kein Stress. Langgestreckte Kokospalmen lehnen sich im 45-Grad-Winkel über den Indischen Ozean. Bei einer Bootsfahrt grüßen Buckelwale, stehen Kopf, wackeln mit Flosse und Hinterteil.
Autor: Bernd Kubisch
Weitere Alternativen zu Asien finden Sie hier: Teil 1: Mexiko
Teil 2: Madagaskar
Teil 3: Malawi
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