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Der Playa del Panteón in Puerto Ángel eignet sich hervorragend zum Entschleunigen
Alternativen zu Asien, Teil 1 Mexiko: Traumurlaub an der südlichen Pazifikküste Fernreisende wissen Urlaubsziele in Asien zu schätzen. Ein Grund sind die geringen Nebenkosten. Preisgünstige Alternativen auf anderen Kontinenten sind rar gesät. REISE & PREISE-Autoren weisen Ihnen den Weg. Im ersten Teil unserer Reihe entführen wir Sie nach Mexiko. An der südlichen Pazifikküste zwischen Puerto Escondido und Puerto Angel findet sich auf nur 80 Kilometern Länge ein chilliges Dorado Weltenbummler, das hierzulande immer noch nahezu unbekannt ist. Eingebettet in eine karge, aber wunderschöne Gebirgs- und Kakteenlandschaft, zieht Oaxaca den Besucher schon am ersten Tag in seinen Bann. Die bunten Häuser, die Marktstände, Shops und Kunstgalerien. Das historische Zentrum der 250.000-Einwohner-Stadt mit seinen Kirchen und Kolonialbauten zählt zum UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe. Kurzum: Oaxaca macht Spaß.
Nach den Strapazen der langen Anreise freuen wir uns auf die bequemen mexikanischen Hängematten. Bücher rausholen und abschalten an den Traumstränden der südlichen Pazifikküste. Nach rund 250 Kilometern und sechs Stunden Fahrt auf dem Highway 175 kündigen kreisende Fregattvögel am Himmel unser erstes Ziel an: Puerto Ángel.
Woher der nicht einmal 5.000 Einwohner zählende Fischerort den Beinamen »Hafen« hat, »google« ich gleich einmal. Mitte des 19. Jh. wurden hier Kaffee, Holz und Stoffe auf Handelsschiffe verladen. Geblieben ist ein kleiner Touristen- und Fischerort, der von sich behaupten kann, dass die meisten Besucher gern wiederkommen. Der kleine Playa del Panteón macht dem Ruf der Region als Surferparadies zwar keine Ehre, aber wir sind nicht zum Surfen, sondern zum Entschleunigen gekommen. Erkunden lieber die Gegend und unternehmen für elf Dollar eine Whale-Whatching-Tour. Gehen schwimmen, essen gut und sind schon nach zwei Tagen tiefenentspannt. Irgendwie wie in Asien, nur anders. Das Essen ist anders und auch der Menschenschlag. Mexikaner sind herzlich, offen, freundlich und stolz auf ihr Land. Gespräche über Korruption, Politik und Kriminalität führt man hier nicht gleich am ersten Abend.
Nach vier Tagen geht’s weiter. Nach Zipulite, das liegt ganze zehn Autominuten weiter Richtung Westen. Da, wo die riesigen Brecher sich auftürmen und ungeschützt Richtung Strand rollen. Irgendwie ist hier alles ein wenig freizügiger. Surferszene, Beachlife, Nudisten, Yoga- Workshops und Bodegas, in denen seit Jahrzehnten Bob Marley, Sergio Mendes und Carlos Santana gespielt werden. Aber sympathisch. Im Zentrum von Zipulite finden sich Restaurants, Shops und,– erst seit drei Jahren – der einzige Geldautomat. Da wir gutes Frühstück zu schätzen wissen, sitzen wir jeden Morgen im »Café Orale« vom Franzosen Jean François. Im schattigen Garten werden perfekter Cappuccino, Frühstücksvariationen, leckere Omelettes, Früchte und allerlei Gebäck serviert. Das Baden kommt in Zapulite leider etwas zu kurz, es gibt, wie überall an der Küste, gefährliche Unterströmungen, die schon vielen Schwimmern zum Verhängnis geworden sind. Für uns geht’s daher nur ins Wasser, wenn die Rettungsschwimmer die grüne Flagge hissen.
Die nächste Station unserer Reise ist Mazunte. Weitere sechs Kilometer gen Westen. Vor nicht allzu langer Zeit lebten viele Leute vom Schildkötenfang. Als das Anfang der neunziger Jahre verboten wurde, wurde eine Schutzzone eingerichtet. Danach kamen die Touristen. Schildkröten bevorzugen weiche, helle Strände. Genau wie die Besucher. An den Hängen hinterm Traumstrand kleben Palapas, strohgedeckte Häuschen, von denen man aufs Meer blickt. Der Touristenalltag besteht aus Dösen und Nichtstun. Manche gehen zwischendurch mal zum Yoga.
Leider müssen wir weiter, denn die Unterkunft im 70 Kilometer entfernten Puerto Escondido ist bereits gebucht. Man hätte die Strecke theoretisch auch laufen können. Ein weißes Sandband zieht sich fast durchgängig über 50 Kilometer von Mazunte bis Escondido die Küste entlang. Zum Lunch halten wir in Agua Blanca, einem kleinen Badeort mit ein paar Palapa- Restaurants. Neugierig werden wir in La Ventanilla: Da fahren Kanus in einer Lagune, auf den Sandbänken tummeln sich Flusskrokodile und in den Mangroven leben Echsen, Gürteltiere und Ameisenbären. Hier könnte man es auch ein paar Tage aushalten. Wir entscheiden uns, wiederzukommen, weil wir unser Gepäck nicht so gern im Auto zurücklassen wollen.
Puerto Escondido ist im Vergleich zu den bisherigen Stationen eine richtige Stadt. Strände gibt es für jeden Geschmack, vom Stadtstrand Playa Principal bis zur abgeschiedenen Bucht. Publikumsmagnet ist der fast drei Kilometer lange Playa Zicatela. Hier gibt’s die weltberühmte »Mex Pipe«, die im Spätsommer eine Höhe von gut zehn Metern erreicht, das ist nur was für Profisurfer. Wir sind meist am ruhigeren Playa Carrizalillo zu finden, der wegen seiner 150 Treppenstufen nicht übermäßig besucht ist. Und lassen es uns auch die letzten Tage gutgehen. Viva Mexiko, wir kommen wieder!
Autor: Oliver Behrens
Weitere Alternativen zu Asien finden Sie hier: Teil 1: Mexiko
Teil 2: Madagaskar
Teil 3: Malawi
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