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Vor allem junge Burmesen aus der aufstrebenden Mittelschicht lassen es sich am Chaungtha Beach gut gehen
Reisebericht Burma Geheimtippstrände an Myanmars Küsten Es tut sich was in Burma. Aung San Suu Kyi ist mehr oder weniger an der Macht, die Wirtschaft boomt, der Tourismus auch. Die Preise steigen. Natürlich gibt es noch genug ursprüngliche oder originelle Plätze.Die Stadt Pathein und der Chaungtha Beach gehören dazu. Entspannt sitze ich in Pathein vor der Bar »Top Star« an der Strand Road am Pathein River, den Tag ausklingen lassen. Die Sonne ist schön untergegangen. Nein, die Kneipe ist nichts Besonderes. Plastiktische in Rot und Hellgrün, passende Stühle dazu. Straßenhändler, Fahrradrikschas, ein paar Mopeds und ab und zu ein Auto fahren in etwa zwei Metern Entfernung vorbei, wie im Theater. Wir bestaunen uns gegenseitig. Touristenfreie Zone. Auf der anderen Seite liegt der Fluss. Der Wirt und seine Frau schenken Mandalay-Bier vom Fass aus, 60 Cent die Halbe, gut. Die 250.000-Einwohner- Stadt am Delta ist ein wunderbarer Ort für ein oder zwei Tage, exotisch quirlig und gleichzeitig entspannt. Echtes Burma. Das Leben spielt sich an der Strand Road am Fluss sowie um die Shwemokhtaw- Pagode im Zentrum ab. Tagelöhner schleppen Waren, Boote werden mit allen denkbaren Gütern beladen, Fähren setzen über, Mönche sammeln ihre Spenden ein, Kinder sind auf dem Schulweg. In den Schirmwerkstätten – es soll über 50 davon geben – werden die in ganz Burma gefragten Schmuckstücke aus Bambus gefertigt. Die Shwemokhtaw-Pagode mit ihrem riesigen goldenen Stupa gehört sicher zu den schönsten religiösen Bauwerken Myanmars. Die Gläubigkeit der Besucher ist beeindruckend. Eine der Buddhafiguren soll vom indischen König Ashoka aus Sri Lanka hierher gebracht worden sein. Es gibt noch zehn andere Klöster in der Stadt. In Gehweite vom Zentrum ist die Shwezigon-Pagode einen Besuch wert. Den exotischen Markt im Zentrum sollte man sich auch nicht entgehen lassen.
Badespaß am Chaungtha Beach Nach zwei Tagen will ich weiter ans Meer. Ich habe die Wahl: Ngwe Saung Beach oder Chaungtha Beach? Beide liegen knapp 60 Kilometer von Pathein entfernt (über unterschiedliche Straßen) und sollen richtig schön sein. Ich entscheide mich für Chaungtha, den Burmesen- Strand. Treffender kann man den endlos langen, breiten, fast weißen, manchmal steinigen Strand nicht beschreiben. Ein paar Westler und ganz viele meist jüngere Leute aus der neuen burmesischen Mittelklasse haben die Destination schon entdeckt. Gaudi ist angesagt. Zebrareiten und Radfahren am Beach zum Beispiel. Beim zweiten Hinschauen kommt heraus, dass die »Zebras« angemalte Pferde sind, macht nix. Fahrräder gibt‘s zu mieten. Mädels radeln lächelnd mit Drachenbaumblätter-Sonnenhüten auf Tandems den Strand hinunter zum goldenen Tempel. Vielleicht geht was. Fußball wird gespielt, Eis verkauft, Burma-Whiskey getrunken, selbst ein paar Mönche wandern herum und schauen, was im weltlichen Leben los ist. Nebenbei sind die Strände der Gegend beliebte Mopedwege, ziemlich einmalig auf der Welt.
Ein absolutes Erlebnis ist die Mopedfahrt rüber zum Ngwe Saung Beach, 20 Kilometer meist am Strand entlang. Hinter Chaungtha ist man in einer anderen Welt. Einsame Strände, Mangrovenwälder, mehr oder weniger unberührte Natur, schöne, ursprüngliche Dörfer, scheinbar intakte Welt. Strände umrahmt von Palmen und Drachenbäumen, keine Touristen und keinerlei touristische Infrastruktur. Man überquert auf Kähnen, die als Fähren dienen, drei Flüsse. Besser den Fährmann das Moped aufs Boot bringen lassen! Durch Palmenhaine geht’s an geschäftigen Fischern vorbei, Kinder und Omas winken. Die Strecke ist leicht zu fahren – und unvergesslich!
Anreise Von Yangon fahren stündlich Busse nach Pathein (4 Std., € 2,20–3,60), nach Chaungtha von 6–10 Uhr etwa stündlich (mind. 6 Std., € 7,20). Ein Taxi vom Zentrum zur Busstation Dagon Ayeyar (D/25 Hinthata Street) kostet US$ 5, verhandeln! Von Pathein nach Chaungtha starten die Busse ca. alle 2 Stunden (€ 2,20–3,60). Tickets werden von fast allen Unterkünften gebucht, viel billiger kauft man selbst direkt am Busbahnhof.
Autor: Johann Jilka (2/2017)
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