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Das Opernhaus und die Sydney Harbour Bridge ergeben zusammen eines der beliebtesten Fotomotive der Welt. Foto: Dean Lewins/AAP/dpa
Jubiläum des «Kleiderbügels» Die Sydney Harbour Bridge wird 90 Wenn es um die Hafenbrücke von Sydney geht, geraten nicht nur Schriftsteller ins Schwärmen. Die Stahl-Konstruktion, die jetzt runden Geburtstag feiert, ist ein architektonisches Meisterwerk. Ihre Glanzstunde erlebt sie jedes Jahr zu Silvester. «Diese Brücke ist von Leuten erbaut worden, die Berge von Kohle und Hochöfen gehabt haben, in denen man ein Schlachtschiff schmelzen könnte», schrieb Bestseller-Autor Bill Bryson einst über die fast 53.000 Tonnen schwere Sydney Harbour Bridge und schwärmte: «Es ist ein prachtvolles Bauwerk.»
Zusammen mit dem nahe gelegenen Opernhaus, dem Felsklotz Uluru und dem Känguru zählt die markante Konstruktion zu den Symbolen Australiens. Obwohl die Hafenbrücke schon 90 Jahre auf dem (Stahl-)Buckel hat, wirkt ihr Design zeitlos schön. Sie ist zugleich Hauptverkehrsader und Wahrzeichen.
Risikoreiche Bauarbeiten Ein Rückblick: Es ist ein Mega-Event , als die Harbour Bridge am 19. März 1932 mit viel Brimborium eröffnet wird. 750.000 Menschen strömen herbei, um sie zu bestaunen und erstmals zu begehen. «The great job is done!», jubelt damals ein Kommentator. Nach sieben Jahren Bauzeit gehöre die Brücke endlich «dem Mann auf der Straße - und wie er sie in Besitz genommen hat!» Auf Filmaufnahmen ist zu sehen, wie riesige Menschenmassen auf die Brücke drängen.
1600 Menschen waren an den gefährlichen Bauarbeiten in luftiger Höhe beteiligt. 16 Männer überlebten sie nicht. «Jeden Tag gingen diese Männer auf die Brücke, so wie ein Soldat in die Schlacht zieht, ohne zu wissen, ob sie lebend herunterkommen würden oder nicht», sagte damals der Bauleiter Lawrence Ennis. Aber es war die Zeit der Großen Depression, jede Art von Job war heiß begehrt.
Klettern auf dem gigantischen Kleiderbügel
Ein Mann joggt an der Sydney Harbour Bridge vorbei. Die Sydneysider nennen ihr Wahrzeichen liebevoll den Kleiderbügel. Bianca De Marchi/AAP/dpa
Die Brücke wird während der Feierlichkeiten zum 90. Jahrestag mit Lichtprojektionen beleuchtet. Beliebt ist auch das Silvesterfeuerwerk, das alljährlich über dem markanten Bau in den Himmel geschossen wird. Dan Himbrechts/AAP/dpa
Die Harbour Bridge zählt zu den Symbolen Australiens schlechthin. Dean Lewins/AAP/dpa
Previous Next «Coat Hanger» (Kleiderbügel), so nennen die Sydneysider ihre Ikone liebevoll. Der Vergleich hinkt etwas, denn filigran und drahtig ist sie nicht. Aber von der Form her passt es: Mit einer Spannweite von 503 Metern handelt es sich bis heute um eine der längsten Bogenbrücken der Welt. Sie verbindet das Zentrum der Metropole mit den nördlichen Vororten.
Wer keine Höhenangst hat, der kann seit 1998 mittels BridgeClimb sogar den Bogen erklimmen und auf 134 Meter aufsteigen. Die begeisterten Online-Kommentare mutiger Kletterer reichen von «geniale Erfahrung» über «sensationell» bis «der Hammer».
Harbour Bridge und Opernhaus: Doppel-Geniestreich Aber auch vom Boden aus ist der Anblick unvergesslich. Wenn sich Touristen erstmals von den Royal Botanic Gardens aus dem Hafen nähern oder mit einer Fähre am Circular Quay ablegen, dann stockt so manchem der Atem: Die weißen, verschachtelten Dächer der Oper glänzen in der Sonne, dahinter erhebt sich majestätisch die Harbour Bridge über dem blauen Wasser. Dieser architektonische Doppel-Geniestreich ist eines der schönsten und begehrtesten Fotomotive der Welt.
«Das Opernhaus ist ein herrliches Gebäude, und ich will es auch gar nicht schlecht machen, aber mein Herz gehört der Harbour Bridge», schreibt Bill Bryson in seiner Australien-Hommage «Frühstück mit Kängurus». Sie sei zwar nicht so feierlich, aber weit dominanter: «Man sieht sie aus allen Winkeln der Stadt, aus den schrägsten Richtungen schiebt sie sich ins Bild wie ein Onkel, der auf jedem Foto drauf sein will.»
Ein paar Daten Die eigentlichen Bauarbeiten starteten 1925. Sechs Millionen Nieten wurden in den nächsten Jahren per Hand festgedreht. Im August 1930 war es endlich so weit und der Bogen wurde geschlossen. Mit den Auffahrrampen ist die Harbour Bridge 1150 Meter lang, und sie ist stolze 50 Meter breit.
Auf den acht Autospuren fahren an Werktagen fast 200.000 Autos von einem Stadtteil in den anderen. Dazu gibt es zwei Eisenbahnlinien sowie Wege für Fußgänger und Fahrradfahrer. 2004 kam das Bauwerk sogar ins Guinness-Buch der Rekorde - und zwar als «breiteste Brücke der Welt mit langer Spannweite».
Spektakuläres Silvester Einmal im Jahr richten sich die Augen der halben Welt auf die Brücke - nämlich zu Silvester. Wenn in Down Under das neue Jahr eingeläutet wird, dann funkelt über dem Stahl eines der spektakulärsten Feuerwerke der Erde.
Anfang 2018 stattete übrigens ein anderes Symbol Australiens der Brücke einen unangekündigten Besuch ab: Ein kleines Känguru hüpfte damals plötzlich auf die Harbour Bridge. Das Sumpfwallaby sprang eine Stunde vor Sonnenaufgang und damit vor der Hauptverkehrszeit über alle acht Fahrspuren in Richtung Zentrum. Mehrere Polizeiwagen und Polizisten der Reiterstaffel mussten anrücken, um das Beuteltier von der Brücke zu holen.
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