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In Montego Bay wartet eines der schönsten Erlebnisse, das man auf Jamaika haben kann: eine Vogelfütterung mit frei fliegenden Kolibris. Foto: Jamaica Tourist Board/dpa-tmn
Ganz entspannt und mittendrin Jamaika abseits des Reggae-Trubels Wer an Jamaika denkt, denkt vermutlich an wilde Reggae-Partys am Strand mit viel Rum und Marihuana. Doch Jamaika ist weit mehr als dieses Klischee: Eine Reise in das Landesinnere. «Das ist eines der schönsten Erlebnisse, das man auf Jamaika haben kann», verspricht Fremdenführer Aneif Anderson, und trifft damit auf eher skeptische Gäste. In eine Art Vogelpark nahe Montego Bay will er sie bringen - das soll toll sein?
Doch vor Ort entpuppt sich das «Rockland's Birds Sanctuary» als wunderschönes Anwesen in den Bergen mit einem grandiosen Blick aufs Meer. Das Beste allerdings ist erst mal nicht zu sehen: frei fliegende Kolibris, die den Gästen ein unvergessliches Erlebnis bescheren sollen - mit Fütterung auf der Hand. Fritz, der Manager des kleinen Parks, lässt die Besucher auf der Terrasse Platz nehmen, drückt ihnen ein Fläschchen mit Zuckerwasser in die Hand.
Die Mini-Hubschrauber landen «Einfach still sitzen, das Zuckerwasser in einer Hand halten, dazu einen Finger der anderen Hand ausstrecken», sagt Fritz. Nach zwei, drei Minuten flattern sie herbei: zwei hübsche Kolibris, die die ausgestreckten Finger ansteuern und nach kurzem Zögern wie Mini-Hubschrauber vorsichtig darauf landen.
«Das Feeling, diesen federleichten Winzling auf der Hand zu spüren, seinen Flügelschlag zu fühlen und zu sehen, wie er sich mit seinem zarten Schnäbelchen das Zuckerwasser holt, ist irre und eigentlich unbeschreiblich». Marion aus Nürnberg ist hin und weg.
Natürlich weiß Fritz alles über Kolibris: Dass sie fast 50 Kilometer pro Stunde schnell sind, bis zu 90 Mal pro Sekunde mit ihren Flügeln schlagen; dass die kleinsten nur zwei und selbst die größten höchstens 20 Gramm schwer sind.
Wasser für die Kolibris: Nur ein paar Gramm schwer sind die Winzlinge, die auf den Fingern der Gäste landen. Joachim Hauck/dpa-tmn
Mehr als nur Strand und Reggae-Partys: Auch eine Reise in das Landesinnere nach Montego Bay im Nordwesten Jamaikas lohnt sich. Jamaica Tourist Board/dpa-tmn
Unweit des Dorfes Lethe lohnt ein Abstecher zum Great River. Auf einem Bambus-Floß kann man hier ganz entspannt den Unterlauf des Flusses herunter schippern. Will Twort/Jamaica Tourist Board/dpa-tmn
Frisch aufgeschlagene Kokosnüsse gibt es beinahe überall auf Jamaika. Joachim Hauck/dpa-tmn
Fütterung aus dem Fläschchen: Zutraulich sind nur die Männchen, weibliche Kolibris kommen Reisenden nicht so nahe. Joachim Hauck/dpa-tmn
Kristallklares Wasser und feinster Sand: Der Doctors Cave Beach ist einer der bekanntesten Strände Jamaikas. David I Muir/Jamaica Tourist Board/dpa-tmn
Das kristallklare Wasser am Doctors Cave Beach hat ganzjährig eine Temperatur zwischen 22 und 28 Grad. David I Muir/Jamaica Tourist Board/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Das «Birds Sanctuary», erzählt Fritz, verdanke seine Existenz der Engländerin Lisa Salmon. Die verliebte sich in den frühen 50er-Jahren in den herrlichen Platz über dem Meer, unternahm lange Spaziergänge - und ließ überall Futter und Zuckerwasser für die Vögel zurück. Nach ein paar Jahren war ihr Haus Lebensmittelpunkt der örtlichen Vogelwelt, 1952 machte die Engländerin ihr Refugium der Öffentlichkeit zugänglich.
Mit dem Bambus-Floß auf dem Great River Gut verbinden lässt sich die Visite bei den Kolibris mit einem Abstecher zum Great River unweit des Dorfs Lethe. Mit dem Auto geht's über kurvige Bergstraßen zum Fluss, wo man sich an der «Chukka Reggae Rafting»-Basis entscheiden muss: Rauf zum wilden Oberlauf des Flusses und über Stromschnellen zurück? Oder lieber den ruhigen Unterlauf auf dem Bambus-Floß herunter schippern lassen?
Wer es entspannt haben will, wird sich für die Variante Bambus entscheiden und die nächsten zwei Stunden Joshua anvertrauen - einem bulligen Flößer mit zum Zopf gebundenen Rasta-Locken.
Nur in ein paar Engstellen, wo die Strömung stärker und der Fluss tiefer wird, muss Joshua den Flößerstab mit aller Kraft gegen den Fels drücken. Ansonsten bleibt viel Zeit und Muße, um die herrliche Uferlandschaft mit Riesenbambus-Bäumen zu bestaunen.
Unterwegs kommen uns immer wieder junge Männer entgegen, die im Wasser watend mühsam Flöße stromaufwärts schieben. Während die zahlenden Gäste am Ende ihrer Tour bequem im Auto zur Basis fahren, müssen die Flöße mit Muskelkraft zurückgebracht werden. Mindestens drei Stunden schuften sich die Jungs im Fluss ab - für gerade mal zehn Dollar.
Der Tag, an dem die Vögel verschwanden Auf die Frage, ob er denn die Kolibri-Station im nahen Rockland kennt, erzählt Joshua die wunderbare Geschichte, die bis heute in der ganzen Region Montego Bay die Runde macht: Am Tag, als Lisa Salmon starb, waren alle Vögel plötzlich verschwunden. Die Leute dachten, dass sie nie mehr zurückkommen würden, doch bei der Beerdigung von Lisa waren all ihre gefiederten Freunde wieder da. Wahr oder nicht - Joshua und die meisten Jamaikaner glauben fest daran.
Jamaika
Anreise: Nonstop-Flüge zum internationalen Flughafen Sangster werden ab Frankfurt am Main angeboten, von anderen deutschen Airports gibt es Umsteigeverbindungen.
Einreise und Corona-Lage: Laut Auswärtigem Amt müssen alle Flugreisenden eine offizielle Reisegenehmigung einholen. Ab einem Alter von 12 Jahren müssen alle Einreisenden einen negativen PCR- oder Antigen-Test nachweisen, der bei Einreise nicht älter als drei Tage sein darf. Vollständig geimpfte Personen müssen bei Vorlage eines negativen PCR-Tests (nicht älter als 72 Stunden bei Einreise) nicht in Quarantäne. Touristen müssen nicht in Quarantäne, wenn sie sich nur in den designierten Touristenkorridoren aufhalten. (Stand: 17.02.22)
Reisezeit: Als beste Urlaubszeiten für Jamaika gelten die Trockenperioden zwischen Juli und August sowie von Dezember bis April. Die Regenzeit mit dennoch angenehmen Temperaturen ist meist im Mai und Juni sowie von September bis November.
Info-Adresse: Jamaica Tourist Board, 64 Knutsford Boulevard, Kingston 5, Jamaika (Web: www.visitjamaica.com )
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