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Mountainbiker auf dem Queen Charlotte Track genießen die Aussicht über das Wasser
Neuseeland-Reise Mit dem Fahrrad durch die Marlborough Sounds Die Marlborough Sounds in Neuseelands sind ein bildschönes Labyrinth aus Meeresarmen. Der Queen Charlotte Track führt entlang ihrer Buchten und über die Kämme der Urwaldhügel. Eine Radreise. Wer nach Picton kommt, will in der Regel bald weiter. Zwar kann man in den Cafés an der Uferpromenade wunderbar einen Flat White trinken und aufs Meer schauen. Aber danach schippern die meisten mit der Fähre zur Nordinsel Neuseelands. Oder sie fahren mit dem Mietwagen auf der Küstenstraße nach Süden.
Sie alle verpassen etwas: den Queen Charlotte Track, einen 72 Kilometer langen Pfad, der sich entlang der Buchten und über die höchsten Kämme zwischen zwei südseeschönen Fjorden schlängelt. Seit fünf Jahren trägt er das Prädikat Great Ride und ist damit einer von Neuseelands 22 Premium-Radwegen.
Die Zahl der Radler, die sich in Picton Mountainbikes leihen, nimmt Jahr um Jahr zu. Ein Grund dafür dürfte allein die Anreise zum Startpunkt sein: eine Überfahrt im Postschiff, die so bezaubernd ist, dass viele Touristen sie als Tageskreuzfahrt buchen.
Ferienhäuser in der Einsamkeit Von Bucht zu Bucht pflügt der Katamaran durch den Queen Charlotte Sound, ringsum ragen dicht bewaldete Hügel auf. Mit ein wenig Fantasie erkennt man noch, dass der Meeresarm einst ein Flusstal war, so wie all die verzweigten Fjorde der Malborough Sounds. Als das Meer am Ende der letzten Eiszeit stieg, spülte es in die Täler und Nebentäler. Und schuf so ein bildhübsches Labyrinth.
Schon Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts kamen Ausflügler in Booten und Wasserflugzeugen aus Wellington über die raue Cook Strait hierher, manche bauten sich Ferienhäuser. Ihre Nachfolger schätzen offenbar bis heute die Abgeschiedenheit. Mit großem Abstand sind ihre Häuschen in den Buchten verstreut. In der Blackwood Bay wartet ein älterer Herr mit breitem Kiefer und weißem Schnauzbart. Der Kapitän reicht ihm durchs Seitenfenster einen groben Stoffsack mit seiner Post, die beiden plaudern kurz, dann legt das Boot wieder ab.
Ruhig steuert der Kapitän den Katamaran von Bucht zu Bucht. Bis er plötzlich bremst und mitten in einen Schwarm Kurzschwanz-Sturmtaucher hinein fährt. Zwischen den Seevögeln jagen Delfine hindurch, tauchen ab, springen durch die Luft. «Das sind Schwarzdelfine», erklärt der Kapitän. «Die kleinste der vier Delfinarten hier.»
250 Jahre zuvor segelte James Cook durch diese Meeresarme. Auf Motuara Island, heute ein raubtierfreies Vogelschutzgebiet, hisste der Entdecker die britische Flagge - und beanspruchte damit die gesamte Südinsel Neuseelands für die britische Krone. Dauerhaft vor Anker ging der große Entdecker aber in jener Bucht, in der heute der Queen Charlotte Track startet. Insgesamt 168 Tage verbrachte Cook in der Ship Cove, verteilt über sieben Jahre.
Man versteht schnell, dass es Cook hier gefiel. Baumfarne und Keulenlilien wachsen um die türkise Bucht, in einem Bach rauscht klares Wasser. Ein wunderbarer Auftakt für die Tour.
Ein Hauch von Luxus in der Natur Entspannt kommt man am Abend in der ersten Herberge an und ist entzückt. Vor dem mehr als 100 Jahre alten Herrenhaus der «Furneaux Lodge» plätschert ein Brunnen, Kieswege führen zu den Bungalows und zu einer Fasswanne mit 39 Grad heißem Wasser, aus der man die Bucht überblickt: Luxus für einen neuseeländischen Wanderweg. In der Regel hat man die Wahl zwischen Zelt und Matratzenlager. Am Queen Charlotte Track aber liegen rund ein Dutzend Lodges, Hotels und Resorts.
Frisch geduscht und bestens verköstigt steigt man so am Morgen aufs Rad und fährt entlang des Endeavour Inlet, durch lichten Wald und über mehrere Holzbrücken. Der Abschnitt von der Ship Cove bis zur Camp Bay ist eigentlich der beliebteste des gesamten Weges. Aber Menschen trifft man an diesem Morgen kaum. Der Weg ist weit. Aber zumindest ein Abstecher muss noch sein: zum Punga Cove Resort.
Im Café am Steg säuselt Reggae, Segelboote liegen im türkisen Meer. «Viele Radler machen hier eine Pause», sagt Mariana Teran, die 25-jährige Kellnerin aus Mexiko. «Manche wandern auch aus Ship Cove herüber, holen das vom Postboot gelieferte Rad ab und fahren weiter.»
Klingt komisch, hat aber einen triftigen Grund. Von Anfang Dezember bis Ende Februar ist der Weg von der Ship Cove bis zur Punga Cove für Radler gesperrt - fast den gesamten Sommer.
Hinter der Punga Cove steigt der Weg erstmals steil an. Trotz des Koffeinschubs muss man absteigen und schieben. Zum Glück mündet der Pfad nach einer Viertelstunde in eine Straße, die gemächlicher zum Sattel hinauf führt - wo der nächste knackige Anstieg wartet.
Am Ende wartet noch ein Zoobesuch Immer auf und ab geht es auf dem Kammweg. Auf dem sonnendurchglühten Kamm hoppeln die Stollenreifen über einen steinigen Pfad, in herrlichen Kurven brettert man durch den Kiefern- und Südbuchenwald, im Schatten des dichten Laubdachs spritzt der Schlamm bis zum Hals. Immer wieder öffnen sich grandiose Ausblicke über die Fjorde.
Hinter dem Torea Saddle muss man das Rad abermals einen steilen Hang hinauf schieben. Durchgeschüttelt und erschöpft rollt man abends ins «Lochmara Resort», vorbei an fliehenden Alpakas und Lamas - das Hotel ist zugleich ein Privatzoo. Hunderte von Ausflüglern kommen täglich, um die Ziegen- und Springsittiche in der Voliere oder die Stechrochen unten in der Bucht zu füttern. In einem Becken liegen Seesterne zum Anfassen. Und nachts leuchten in den Büschen die Larven der Langhornmücken. Schnell weiter will spätestens hier wohl keiner mehr.
Allgemeine Reiseinformationen zu den Marlborough Sounds Anreise: Aus Deutschland fliegen mehrere Airlines mit einem Zwischenstopp nach Wellington oder Christchurch. Von Wellington setzen Fähren nach Picton über, von Christchurch fahren Busse. Mit dem Postschiff oder einem Wassertaxi gelangt man von Picton zu mehreren Startpunkten entlang des Queen Charlotte Track.
Reisezeit: Als beste Monate gelten Februar und März. Dann ist das Wetter in der Regel stabil, das Meer wird bis zu 22 Grad warm.
Übernachtung: Am Wegesrand gibt es mehrere Lodges, die allerdings nicht günstig sind. Wer sein Zelt einpackt, kann auf einfachen Campingplätzen übernachten.
Corona-Lage: Neuseeland ist von der Pandemie nicht sehr stark betroffen. Das Auswärtige Amt weist darauf hin, dass internationale Einreisen bis auf weiteres verboten sind.
Informationen: Tourismusbüro Picton (Tel.: +64 3 520 3113, E-Mail: ). Department of Conservation Picton (Tel.: +64 3 520 3002, E-Mail: ).
(29.12.2020, dpa)
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