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Betörende Kulisse: Blick auf Korallenriffe vor Mahé
Seychellen-Urlaub Beim Wandern Traumstrände und Natur genießen Wilde Obstgärten, Riesenfarne und nickende Palmen: Wer über die Seychellen wandert, sieht Korallenriffe von oben und einen Garten Eden um sich herum. Das ist sogar für manchen Einheimischen neu. Kerly Soomery braucht für den Aufstieg auf den Mont Sébert weder Wasser noch richtiges Schuhwerk. Ihm reichen Flipflops, die er wie die meisten Bewohner Mahés praktisch ständig trägt. An diesem Tag begleitet er eine Gruppe ausländischer Reisender auf den 555 Meter hohen Berg.
Hier finden Sie weitere Reiseberichte über die Seychellen
Als die Inselgruppe sich im Lockdown befand, waren die blütenweißen Strände gesperrt. Doch Wandern blieb erlaubt. Eigentlich kommen die meisten Touristen wegen der weltweit größten Korallenriffe auf die Seychellen, schnorcheln im lauwarmen Wasser des Indischen Ozeans. Selbst Einheimische gingen oft lieber tauchen als auf die Berge.
Während des Einreisestopps standen Hotels und Restaurants leer. Die Seychellois hatten plötzlich viel Zeit. Zum Beispiel, um Trails durch die Felswände zu erkunden. So ging es auch Kerly Soomery.
Hier findest Du die besten Reiseangebote für die Seychellen DER METAPREISVERGLEICH VON REISE-PREISE.de
Afrika, Asien und Europa auf einem Archipel Um zehn Uhr morgens steht die Sonne bereits hoch am Himmel. Das Klima hier vor der Küste Ostafrikas ist heiß, feucht und tropisch. Die Böden sind so fruchtbar, dass alles, was einmal angepflanzt wurde, wild weiterwächst: Zitronengras und Zimt, Avocado und Ananas, Banane und Brotfrucht. Kokospalmen nicken sich mit filigranem Wedeln zu. Wasserfälle ergießen sich in türkisblaue Seen.
Die Tour auf den Mont Sébert ist eine der anspruchsvolleren Trails auf Mahé, der Hauptinsel des Archipels. Aus dem Tal heraus führen 600 kniehohe Stufen - der tägliche Weg für eine Großfamilie, an deren Obstgarten der Trail entlang führt. Dann geht es in den Tropenwald.
Zeit für eine kleine Geschichtsstunde. «Hast du das Monument in Viktoria gesehen?», fragt Kerly Soomery und setzt zu einem Parforceritt über die 115 Inseln an, die gemeinsam Seychellen heißen. «Die drei ineinandergreifenden Flügel stehen für unsere Identität: Wir sind Afrika, Asien und Europa zugleich.»
Vor 250 Jahren wurden die Inseln zunächst von Piraten besiedelt. Später kamen und gingen französische und englische Kolonialherren, afrikanische Sklaven mussten auf den Plantagen schuften.
Beeindruckende Vegetation säumt Weg zum Gipfel Die gewaltigen Stämme alter Baumriesen ragen in die Höhe, über dem Blätterdach schweben weit gefächerte Kronen. Über rostbraune Steine rieselt Wasser. Das grüne Dickicht staffelt sich von spitzblättrigen Stauden über hängende Pflanzenteppiche bis zu bemoostem Fels. Wundersame Wurzeln wachsen auf Hüfthöhe überirdisch aus einem Stamm.
Diese einzigartige Pflanzenwelt zu erhalten, ist längst ein internationales Anliegen. Neben den Korallenriffen ist mehr als die Hälfte der Landfläche der Seychellen geschützt, weil viele Nutzpflanzen stark invasiv sind. Erst weiter oben finden sich oft die endemischen Arten, sogenannte Baumfarne, die bis zu sieben Meter hoch werden, und die fleischfressende Kannenpflanze.
Als der Weg aus dem Wald führt, fallen die Blicke auf eine gigantische schräge Granitwand. Die letzte Hürde: nicht nach unten schauen. Auf allen Vieren hangeln sich die Wanderer über die Rillen im Stein nach oben. Nach rund zweieinhalb Stunden ist der Gipfel erreicht. Einheimische lieben den Blick auf den Flughafen. Touristen schauen über die kleinen und großen Inseln bis zum Horizont und zählen die verschiedenen Blautöne im Meer.
Kerly Soomery macht Yoga, um die gewaltige Aussicht von der Ost- bis zur Westseite der Insel angemessen zu würdigen. Zwar dürfen Touristen unter Auflagen wieder ins Land kommen, doch noch sind es wenige. Noch haben die Seychellois ihre Insel fast ganz für sich.
Seychellen-Einreise und Corona-Lage: Die Seychellen sind Hochinzidenzgebiet, es besteht eine Reisewarnung. Die Einreise aus Deutschland mit einem negativen PCR-Test, der bei Abflug nicht älter als 72 Stunden sein darf, ist möglich. Die Quarantänepflicht wurde aufgehoben.
Allgemeine Informationen zu den Seychellen Anreise: Flugverbindungen auf die Seychellen gibt es von Deutschland aus mit Umsteigen zum Beispiel am Persischen Golf (Emirates und Qatar Airways) oder in Addis Abeba (Ethiopian Airlines). Wandern: Die Seychelles National Parks Authority hat Trails ausgezeichnet, die Touristen auch alleine begehen können. Informationen: Seychelles Tourist Office, Berner Straße 50, 60437 Frankfurt (Tel. 069/29 72 07 89).
(22.04.2021, dpa)
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