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Das nationale Tanztheater (Nemzeti Táncszínház) erstrahlt im Abendlicht. Foto: Ungarisches Tourismusamt/dpa-tmn
Modernes Budapest Ungarns Hauptstadt im Wandel Neue Glanzlichter wie das Haus der Musik mischen das alte Gepräge in Budapest auf. Seit der Jahrtausendwende ist die Donaumetropole im Aufbruch. Ein Stadtrundgang zu architektonischen Highlights. Maria Siklos erinnert sich noch gut daran, wie es früher in der Nähe des Donau-Ufers ausgesehen hat: «Das war total heruntergekommen und schrecklich. Es gab Lagergebäude und leere Grundstücke. Doch die Lage war schön.»
Ebendort entstand kurz nach der Jahrtausendwende das Nationaltheater (Nemzeti Színház) nach Entwürfen der heute 83-jährigen Architektin. Es war der Aufbruch in ein neues Zeitalter. Siklos ist quasi eine Geburtshelferin des modernen Budapest.
Seither stehen die Kräne nicht still. Ungarns Hauptstadt hat sich beständig gewandelt und aufgewertet. Die jüngsten Prestigeprojekte liegen im Stadtwäldchen (Városliget) unweit des Ostbahnhofs (Keleti): das zu Jahresbeginn eröffnete Haus der Musik sowie der Neubau des Ethnographischen Museums (Néprajzi Múzeum), der kurz vor der Fertigstellung steht.
Architektur und Natur in Verbindung Mit dem Haus der ungarischen Musik (Magyar Zene Háza) ist dem Japaner Sou Fujimoto ein großer Wurf gelungen: Ein Säulenwald als Fortsetzung des Grüns im Park. Ein geschwungenes Dach mit Löchern, durch die Bäume wachsen. Draußen und drinnen Decken, die Dekors aus Tausenden stilisierter, goldglänzender Blätter tragen. Der Konzertsaal, der in einer spektakulären Hülle aus Glaswänden steckt. Hier werden Architektur und Natur miteinander verbunden, ohne übertrieben nach Gigantismus zu streben.
Die Klangwelten setzen sich in der interaktiven Dauerausstellung «Musikalische Reise durch Raum und Zeit» fort und im Sound Dome, wo man sich bei den Projektionen am besten auf dem Boden auf Sandsäcken ausstreckt. Das Haus der Musik ist auf dem allerneuesten Stand der Technik und unterstreicht, dass Budapest in der Zukunft angekommen ist. Überall in der Stadt mischt die Moderne die Bilder aus historisierenden Baustilen und altsozialistischen Relikten auf.
«Ein nettes Architekturchaos» nennt Stadtführer Peter Balogh das und ruft ins Gedächtnis: «Halb Budapest wurde architektonisch im 19. Jahrhundert in nur drei Jahrzehnten gebaut und vom Eklektizismus bestimmt. Damals war alles neo, ob Neorenaissance oder Neobarock.»
Kulturadressen und ein Geheimtipp Budapests moderne Architektur offenbart ihre Schönheit nicht immer auf den ersten Blick. Der in Nachbarschaft des Nationaltheaters gelegene und Anfang der 2000er Jahre erbaute Palast der Künste (Müpa) von Architekt Gabor Zoboki stößt als Betonklotz von außen ab, aber überzeugt im Innern mit dem Konzertsaal und dem Kunstmuseum Ludwig. Plüschrote Teppichböden und Läufer sind in inflationären Ausmaßen verlegt worden.
Sympathisch ist der Empfang im Millenaris Park, einem vormaligen Industriegelände für Maschinenbau. «Rasen betreten erlaubt» steht ausdrücklich auf einem Schild. Blickfänge sind die hängenden Gärten an der Seite und die massigen Solarpilze, die ihre Spiegelbilder in einen Teich werfen.
Dieser Bau am Ufer der Donau heißt im Volksmund Bálna, was übersetzt Wal bedeutet. Ungarisches Tourismusamt/dpa-tmn
Tausende goldglänzender Blätter schmücken die Decke im Haus der ungarischen Musik. Balazs Mohai/Liget Budapest /dpa-tmn
Am Bálna kann man laue Sommertage mit Blick auf die Donau ausklingen lassen. Ungarisches Tourismusamt/dpa-tmn
Der Palast der Künste («Müpa») wurde Anfang der 2000er Jahre erbaut. Zsofia Palyi/Ungarisches Tourismusamt/dpa-tmn
Außen ein Betonklotz, innen beeindruckend: Der Konzertsaal ist nur einer der Hingucker im Palast der Künste. Ungarisches Tourismusamt/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Ein Parkstück weiter steht das Nationale Tanztheater (Nemzeti Táncszínház), ebenfalls vom Gabor Zoboki entworfen. Weit hinaus schiebt sich das Dachkonstrukt über der Glasfront und einem Freiluftparkett aus sibirischer Fichte.
Die Vergangenheit als Wartungswerk der Bahn prägt das im Vorjahr eröffnete Kulturzentrum Eiffel Art Studios (Eiffel Műhelyház), in dessen Hallen fast hundert Dampfloks gleichzeitig repariert werden konnten. Heute ist der Hauptsaal ein Geheimtipp für Ballett und moderne Opern, denn die Ticketpreise sind günstig.
Walfisch und Untergrundkunst Einen Hingucker wert ist der «Wal» (Bálna), wie ihn der Volksmund nennt. Das Bauwerk befindet sich unweit der Anlegestellen der Flusskreuzfahrtschiffe. Der längliche Rundbau aus Glas und Stahl, der sich über den Ufern der Donau erhebt, geht auf den Niederländer Kas Oosterhuis zurück. Der Wal setzt sich mit zwei historischen Lagergebäuden zum Ensemble CET Building zusammen, doch die finale Nutzung steht noch aus. Da reicht eine Außenbetrachtung.
Dagegen sind die Metrohaltestellen der von 2004 bis 2014 erbauten Linie 4 als Untergrundkunst in den Alltag der Budapester integriert. Die raue Ästhetik aus Roheisenwänden und Betonschächten wird durch Mosaikwände und Farbrechtecke wunderbar aufgeweicht. Lohnende Stopps sind die Stationen Szent Gellert ter und Moricz Zsigmond körter.
Staatsoper in neuem Glanz Das moderne Budapest heißt auch: Das Alte aufmöbeln oder wiederherstellen. Nach viereinhalb Jahren Schließung und einer Investition von 150 Millionen Euro erstrahlt die Staatsoper (Magyar Állami Operaház) seit dem Frühjahr mit innovativer Bühnentechnologie und bequemeren Zuschauersitzen in neuem Glanz. Hinter den Kulissen können die Künstlerinnen und Künstler in der Sauna schwitzen.
Ambitionierte Absichten stecken hinter den Erneuerungen auf dem Burghügel (Várhegy), einem Besuchsklassiker der Donaumetropole. «Im Schnitt bleiben Touristen vierzig Minuten hier», rechnet Krisztina Sikota von der zuständigen Entwicklungsgesellschaft vor. «Aber in Zukunft sollen sie mindestens einen halben Tag dort verbringen.»
Dazu werden die vernachlässigten Gärten auf Vordermann gebracht und neue Möglichkeiten zur Einkehr geschaffen. Bereits seit letztem Jahr ist der restaurierte Sankt-Stephans-Saal des Königspalastes (Budavári Palota) zugänglich und die einstige Hauptwache als Restaurant.
Passend zum Gesamtbild schießen an vielen Stellen Designhotels und Fine-Dining-Adressen aus dem Hauptstadtboden.
Wegbereiterin Maria Siklos verfolgt die Entwicklungen mit Neugier und hält gleichzeitig ihrem Nationaltheater die Treue. «Bei Aufführungen bekomme ich immer einen guten Platz», sagt sie und gesteht auf Nachfrage schmunzelnd: «Natürlich kostenlos.»
Info-Kasten: Budapest Anreise: Die ungarische Hauptstadt ist gut mit dem Zug zu erreichen, zum Beispiel von München oder Nürnberg aus über Wien. Verschiedene Airlines fliegen Budapest aus mehreren deutschen Städten an.
Einreise: In Ungarn gibt es keine Einreisebeschränkungen mehr.
Unterwegs: Die Budapest Card erlaubt die unbegrenzte Nutzung öffentlicher Verkehrsmittel und gewährt kostenlosen Eintritt in viele Museen sowie die Gratis-Teilnahme an Stadtführungen. Die Karte kostet 22/33/43 € für 24/48/72 Stunden (www.budapestinfo.hu/de/webshop)
Wissenswert: 2023 ist Budapest Gastgeber der Leichtathletik-Weltmeisterschaften im August und ganzjährig das «Sprungbrett» in die europäische Kulturhauptstadt-Region Veszprem-Plattensee.
Währung: 1 Euro = 380 Forint (Stand: 11.05.2022)
Informationen: Ungarische Tourismusagentur (Visit Hungary), 1027 Budapest, Kacsa u. 15-23 (Tel.: 0036 1 4888 700; E-Mail: ; Website: visithungary.com/de)
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