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Das Meer wartet: Stegzugang zum Strandbereich Llevant im Norden
Urlaub auf den Balearen Wo Formentera Mallorca schlägt - und wo nicht Wem der Trubel auf Mallorca zu viel ist, der kann stattdessen nach Formentera übersetzen. Die Balearen-Insel hat auf kleiner Fläche viel zu bieten. Verklären muss man die Beschaulichkeit aber nicht. Es bleibt keine andere Wahl als das Boot. Während Mallorcas Flughafen für Millionen Gäste pro Jahr ausgelegt ist, geht es nach Formentera nur auf dem Seeweg.
Nach dem Ablegen in Ibizas Hauptstadt Eivissa verschwimmen im Rücken die Häusermassen, Hafencafés und Hotelkästen. Eine halbe Stunde braucht die Fähre, um Urlauber in eine andere Welt zu überführen.
TIPP: Traumhafte Badebuchten auf Formentera mit schneeweißem Sand
Robert Rosselló schaut sich die Passagiere dann genau an. «Bereits auf dem Schiff fällt der Stress ab. Der Ausdruck im Gesicht der Leute ändert sich. Sie sind plötzlich locker, frei, lächelnd», sagt der 48 Jahre alte Hoteldirektor. In der Saison zwischen Mai und Oktober leitet er ein schickes Haus an der Nordostküste Formenteras. Den Rest des Jahres lebt er mit der Familie in seiner Heimat Mallorca.
«Dort hast du zwar mit Palma de Mallorca eine richtige Stadt. Du hast viele Restaurants, Einkaufscenter, eine Traumbucht wie Alcúdia. Aber es gibt viele Leute, viele Autos, Huperei, Ampeln», sagt der Spanier. «Hier auf Formentera haben wir keine einzige Ampel.»
Hier findest Du die besten Reiseangebote für Formentera DER METAPREISVERGLEICH VON REISE-PREISE.de
Blick in den Nachthimmel Es ist derselbe Archipel, dieselbe Luft, dieselbe Mittelmeerflora - doch alles ist anders als auf Mallorca. Was es auf Formentera nicht gibt, sind Highlife, Autobahn, Golfplatz und Berge.
«Doch das, was wir haben, ist mehr wert als das, was wir nicht haben», findet Mathematik- und Physiklehrer Santiago Jiménez. Der 43-Jährige unterrichtet an Formenteras einziger Sekundarschule und begründete die Astronomische Vereinigung der Insel. Er trifft sich am Abend mit Freunden zur Himmelsbeobachtung an der alten Windmühle beim Dorf El Pilar de la Mola. Zwei Teleskope haben die Hobbyastronomen aufgebaut. Es ist ruhig, wie fast immer auf Formentera. «Die Lichtverschmutzung bei uns ist minimal», sagt Jiménez.
Der Lehrer animiert Inselbesucher zum Blick ins nächtliche Firmament. Der Vorteil seien die kurzen Anfahrtswege: «In höchstens zwanzig Fahrminuten ist man überall.» Auf Mallorca ist das anders.
Die Sache mit dem Neptungras Die geringen Entfernungen sind typisch für Formentera, beliebte Transportmittel Vespa und Rad. Knapp 70 Kilometer Küste bieten herrliche Strände: Ses Illetes und Llevant an der Nordspitze, Es Pujols im Nordosten, Cala Saona im Westen, Migjorn an der Südflanke.
Fluch und Segen zugleich ist das Neptungras, das untermeerische Wiesen bildet und auf Formentera ein noch sensibleres Thema ist als auf Mallorca. Die Anschwemmungen an den Stränden müffeln und sind keine Augenweide. Aber Indikatoren für gesunde Gewässer. Wer auf Schnorcheltour geht, schwebt schwerelos über dem Grün am Meeresgrund, wo sich die Neptungräser hin- und herwiegen. Für die Touristen werden die Anschwemmungen an den Stränden entfernt.
Bescheidene Wanderrouten Die Wanderwege auf Formentera sind nicht mit denen auf Mallorca vergleichbar. Auf Mallorca füllen sie ganze Reiseprogramme und Bücher, auf Formentera eine magere Broschüre.
Klassiker ist der Camí de sa Pujada, ein historischer Trampelpfad, der vom Küstendorf Es Caló de Sant Agustí durch Wäldchen aus Aleppo-Kiefern auf die Hochebene La Mola führt. Mit traumhaften Panoramen auf den Mittelteil der Insel, der sich zwischen den glitzernden Küstenstreifen wie eine Taille zusammenschnürt.
Chaotisch ist die Beschilderung des Wanderweges, der im Nordwesten beim Picknickareal Can Marroig zum historischen Küstenwachtturm Gavina startet. Schilder tauchen auf und verschwinden. Verlässlich sind nur die Begleiter, die über den Weg huschen und im Gesträuch verschwinden: Pityusen-Eidechsen in Blau, Grün und Türkis. Deutlich mehr Balearen-Eidechsen bekommen Besucher auf Sa Dragonera vor der Südwestküste Mallorca zu sehen, Ziel eines Bootsausflugs.
Liebenswert rückständig, aber nicht günstig Was Formentera wie Mallorca bietet, sind Begegnungen mit kauzigen Typen. Der gebürtige Bremer Ekki Hoffmann, 68, lebt seit drei Jahrzehnten auf der 11 000-Einwohner-Insel. Mit Pferdeschwanz, Ohrring und legerem Outfit sieht er aus wie ein Althippie, ist aber keiner. «Hippies haben keine Firmen», stellt er klar.
Einst arbeitete Ekki Hoffmann in Deutschland als Elektroingenieur, auf Formentera gibt er in seiner Werkstatt in Sant Ferran de ses Roques dreiwöchige Gitarrenbaukurse. «Man bringt aus dem Urlaub nicht nur einen Sonnenbrand mit nach Hause, sondern auch ein Instrument», lautet einer seiner Sprüche. Das Formentera-Feeling umreißt Hoffmann so: «Der allgemeine Trend von «alles moderner, alles größer» geht an der Insel vorbei.» Das könne man «liebenswert rückständig» nennen.
Das Preisniveau der Hotels und Restaurants ist jedoch alles andere als rückständig, ein Low-Budget-Urlaub auf Formentera unmöglich. Der Freundlichkeit der Bewohner tut das keinen Abbruch.
Die Fähre legt ab. Adiós Formentera. Ohne «Tränen in den Augen», wie sie Hoteldirektor Rosselló, leicht übertrieben, beim Abschied mancher Gäste ausgemacht haben will. Dennoch schwingt etwas Wehmut mit. Wird man Formentera das nächste Mal so unverfälscht vorfinden, wie man es jetzt erlebt hat? Erfahrene Balearen-Reisende wissen: Bei Mallorca kann man sich nie ganz sicher sein, bei Formentera schon.
Allgemeine Reiseinformationen zu Formentera Anreise: Mit dem Flugzeug nach Ibiza, dort fährt direkt vom Flughafen ein Linienbus zum Hafen von Eivissa. Ab dort verkehren Fähren der Betreiber Trasmapi und Balearia zu Formenteras Hafen La Savina.
Einreise und Corona-Lage: Die Balearen sind kein Corona-Risikogebiet. Für die Einreise nach Spanien sind für Personen ab zwölf Jahren entweder ein Impfnachweis, ein Nachweis über eine Covid-19-Genesung oder ein Corona-Test (PCR oder Antigen) nötig. Details zu den genauen Anforderungen an die Dokumente beim Auswärtigen Amt.
Informationen: www.formentera.es
(22.06.2021, dpa)
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