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Der Hollywood-Film «The Beach» machte die Maya Bay auf Ko Phi Phi weltbekannt. Foto: Carola Frentzen/dpa-tmn
Thailand-Reise Wie Ko Phi Phi wieder zum Paradies wurde Ko Phi Phi steht auf Reise-Wunschlisten meist ziemlich weit oben. Aber der Massentourismus hat den thailändischen Trauminseln schwer zugesetzt. Corona bot eine Verschnaufpause. Und eine neue Chance.
Traditionelle Longboats schaukeln im glasklaren Wasser, Palmen wiegen sich sacht in der Tropenbrise, am Himmel ziehen träge ein paar weiße Wolken. Was klingt wie das Bild aus einem kitschigen Fotokalender, hat einen Namen, der manchen Urlauber schon zum Schmunzeln brachte. Denn ausgesprochen klingt «Phi Phi» so ähnlich wie «Pipi».
Die Inselgruppe Ko Phi Phi im Süden Thailands steht bei vielen Fernreisenden aus aller Welt schon lange auf der «Bucket List». Massentourismus hat ihr deshalb schwer zugesetzt - aber die lange Reisepause durch Corona hat das geändert. Keine Plastikflaschen oder sonstige Abfälle verunstalten das perfekte Postkartenbild. Südostasien zeigt sich hier wieder von einer seiner schönsten Seiten.
Eine OP-Maske schwimmt im Meer Aber was ist das? Als die Passagiere an der Bucht Loh Ba Kao Bay an Land gehen, schwimmen doch plötzlich zwei Zeichen der Zeit an der Oberfläche: ein negativer Corona-Schnelltest und eine grüne OP-Maske. Bart Callens, Generaldirektor des Hotels SAii Phi Phi Village, fischt sie aus dem Meer und schüttelt den Kopf. «Corona hat eine ganz neue Art von Müll hervorgebracht.» Eine Erinnerung daran, dass die Pandemie auch die entlegensten Winkel der Erde erreicht hat.
Jedoch haben solche Funde rund um die Inseln derzeit zum Glück noch Seltenheitswert. Der Tourismus in Thailand läuft gerade erst wieder an, und die Einreiseregeln waren lange vergleichsweise mühselig und kompliziert - auch wenn sie seit 1. Mai deutlich gelockert wurden. Bislang wollte der für das Gastgewerbe so wichtige Neustart aber noch nicht recht gelingen.
Die, die die Mühen der Einreise auf sich genommen haben, werden reich entlohnt. Und haben so manchen Strand noch fast für sich allein. Wer Party sucht, wird aber enttäuscht: Der einst für sein Nachtleben bekannte Hauptort Tonsai Village wirkt noch eher verschlafen.
Die verheerenden Folgen des «The Beach»-Hypes Weltbekannt wurde das Archipel zur Jahrtausendwende. Denn als das Hollywood-Hippie-Drama «The Beach» mit Leonardo DiCaprio im Jahr 2000 in die Kinos kam, löste das Garten-Eden-Ambiente von Ko Phi Phi einen globalen Hype aus. Eigentlich erzählt Regisseur Danny Boyle in dem Aussteiger-Film von einem Leben abseits der Zivilisation, aber der Streifen bewirkte genau das Gegenteil - mit verheerenden Folgen.
Die Unterwasserwelt des Phi-Phi-Archipels ist ein Paradies für Schnorchler. Carola Frentzen/dpa-tmn
Die traditionellen Longboats werden oft auch für Tauchausflüge genutzt. Carola Frentzen/dpa-tmn
Auf Phi Phi Leh liegt die Maya Bay, die nach mehrjähriger Schließung wieder geöffnet ist. Boote müssen nun aber auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite der Insel ankern. Carola Frentzen/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Jahrelang pilgerten Heerscharen von Touristen auf die ansonsten unbewohnte Insel Phi Phi Leh, um die traumhafte Maya Bay zu bestaunen. Am Ende waren es um die 6000 am Tag. Es kam, wie es an berühmten Orten so oft kommt: Das Paradies mutierte zum überfüllten Alptraum. Dutzende Boote warfen jeden Tag ihre Anker ins einst intakte Riff, die Korallen gingen kaputt, die Haie verschwanden, der Müll türmte sich. Zuletzt machten auch die Selfies keine Freude mehr.
Als das Paradies geschlossen wurde Vor allem auf Drängen des prominenten Meeresbiologen Thon Thamrongnawasawat wurde die Bucht im Juni 2018 überraschend gesperrt - trotz der damit verbundenen finanziellen Verluste. Gäste aus dem Ausland seien «sehr wichtig für unser Land, aber das Wichtigste ist unsere nationale Ressource», sagte der Umweltschützer damals. «Wir müssen sie erhalten und der nächsten Generation übergeben.»
Die Sperrung dauerte aufgrund der Pandemie schließlich erheblich länger, als zunächst geplant. Aber für die Maya Bay war das Aufkommen von Corona geradezu ein Segen. Die Grenzen wurden geschlossen, und der Strand bekam zwei weitere Jahre Verschnaufpause.
Schwimmen verboten in der Traumbucht Nach dreieinhalbjähriger Schließung ist das Naturwunder erst seit Januar wieder offen - samt neu gepflanzter Korallen, strikter Benimmregeln und Begrenzung der Besucherzahlen. Schwimmen ist verboten. Die Boote legen jetzt auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite der Insel an. Für die meisten dauert der Besuch kaum länger als 30 Minuten. Aber immerhin gelingen jetzt wieder Fotos wie zu Leonardo DiCaprios Zeiten.
«Die Schwarzspitzenhaie kamen schon nach einem Jahr zurück. Die Erholung der Natur war wie ein Wunder, mit dem wir nicht gerechnet hatten», sagt Sirithon Thamrongnawasawa, die bei der lokalen Singha-Hotelgruppe für Nachhaltigkeitskonzepte verantwortlich ist.
Umdenken bei den Hotels Um das Paradies für die Nachwelt zu erhalten, setzen nun auch immer mehr Hotelanlagen rund um den 390 Quadratkilometer großen «Hat Noppharat Thara–Mu Ko Phi Phi Marine-Nationalpark» auf nachhaltigen Tourismus. «Das Verbraucherverhalten hat sich in den letzten Jahren grundlegend verändert», sagt Hotel-Generaldirektor Bart Callens. «Urlauber achten heute zunehmend auf Umweltfreundlichkeit.» Gerade die Hotels und Resorts müssten als gutes Beispiel vorangehen.
Solarstrom, nachhaltiges Wasser- und Abfallmanagement und in Zukunft möglicherweise auch elektrische Schnellboote für den Transfer - so lauten einige der Ansätze für das Phi-Phi-Archipel. Und, ganz wichtig, Aufklärung und Bildung.
Um diese voranzutreiben, hat das SAii Phi Phi Village auf seinem Gelände ein Marine Discovery Centre eröffnet. Es ist das einzige seiner Art in der Region. Anschaulich wird hier der fragile Lebensraum Ozean erklärt, samt seiner vielseitigen Bewohner von Haien bis zu Korallen. Aber auch Überfischung oder die Gefahren durch die Erwärmung der Meere werden thematisiert.
Hoffnung auf aufgeklärten Tourismus Viele Thais haben durch Corona und das Brachliegen des wichtigen Tourismussektors ihre gesamte Lebensgrundlage verloren. Sie hoffen, dass die Besucher bald wieder in Scharen anreisen.
Und so bleibt die Balance zwischen Massen- und Qualitätstourismus auch im Phi-Phi-Archipel eine schwierige Gratwanderung. Die Pandemie hat der Natur die Chance gegeben, sich zu erholen. Aber was wird, wenn demnächst wieder Besucher aus aller Welt ins Paradies strömen?
«Wir brauchen die Touristen, keine Frage», sagt Bart Callens. «Aber wir brauchen einen aufgeklärten Tourismus, der im Einklang mit der Natur stattfindet.»
Wissenswertes über Ko Phi Phi Anreise: Empfohlen wird eine Anreise über Phuket. Direktflüge dorthin gibt es etwa mit Thai Airways von Frankfurt/Main. Von Phuket geht es per Boot zum Phi-Phi-Archipel. Einreise: Zweifach geimpfte Reisende benötigen seit 1. Mai keinen Corona-Test mehr. Erforderlich bleiben lediglich die Registrierung im Internet für den sogenannten «Thailand Pass» sowie der Nachweis einer Krankenversicherung über 10 000 US-Dollar (rund 9500 Euro). Für Ungeimpfte gelten andere Regeln. Es wird empfohlen, sich bei den Behörden genau über die nötigen Formalitäten schlau zu machen. Informationen gibt es unter anderem bei der thailändischen Botschaft in Berlin. Beste Reisezeit: November bis April, dann ist es etwas weniger heiß und es regnet seltener. Währung: 1 Baht (0,028 Euro); Stand: Ende April 2022 Informationen: Thailändisches Fremdenverkehrsamt, Kirchnerstraße 6-8, 60311 Frankfurt; Tel.: 069/1381390; Mail: ; Website: www.thailandtourismus.de Copyright 2022, dpa (www.dpa.de). Alle Rechte vorbehalten
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