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Greenpoint versprüht noch immer Industrie-Charme - doch die Aufwertung des Viertels ist längst im Gange
Big Apple New Yorks hipper Hafen mit dreckiger Vergangenheit Vom Farmland zur Industrie-Kloake zur Williamsburg-Alternative: Greenpoint ist eine New Yorker Nachbarschaft, die noch nicht völlig überlaufen ist. Doch das dürfte nur eine Frage der Zeit sein. Hinter einer Outdoor-Bar an der Nassau Avenue flackert ein Feuer, das einem Haufen Mitzwanziger das IPA-Bier auch an einem kühlen Abend ermöglicht. Um die Ecke liegt der Vintage-Laden «Beacon's Closet», in dem Menschen mit gut sitzenden Sonnenbrillen im Haar nach neuen, alten Klamotten suchen. Und die Straße runter öffnet der Transmitter-Park den Blick hinüber zu den Wolkenkratzern in Midtown Manhattan, hinter denen eine orangene Sonne untergeht.
Greenpoint im Norden Brooklyns strotzt nur so vor Bars, die den Ton treffen, und jungen Bewohnern, denen Bushwick zu cool und die Upper East Side zu lahm ist. Das Viertel ist keine architektonische Schönheit wie andere Teile Brooklyns, doch die Gentrifizierung ist auch hier seit Jahrzehnten im vollen Gange.
Es war nicht immer so hip in Greenpoint, dem schüchternen Bruder nördlich des bekannten Williamsburg. «Es stank zum Himmel», erzählt Geoffrey Cobb, der Greenpoint wohl besser kennt als jeder andere. Seit 30 Jahren lebt der Ire hier. Mit 19 kam er über den Atlantik, seitdem hat er mehrere Bücher über das Viertel geschrieben.
«Der Ort, an dem wir gerade spazieren gehen, ist ein alter Apfelgarten», sagt Cobb. Die Guernsey Street, die von «Beacon's Closet» in Richtung der belebten Franklin Street führt, ist von Bäumen gesäumt. Die Frühjahrsblüte steht bevor. Links reihen sich grau-beige Altbauten aneinander, rechts holzverkleidete Wohnhäuser. Nicht prätentiös, eher kleinbürgerlich, aber eben auf New Yorker Art.
Man muss 400 Jahre zurückgehen, um zur Zeit zu gelangen, in der Greenpoint tatsächlich noch ein «grüner Punkt» war. Damals lebte hier der Volksstamm der Lenni Lenape, bis er von Siedlern verdrängt wurde.
Ein Kanal, der alles veränderte
Die folgende Entwicklung des Viertels zu einem schmutzigen Industrieort kann vor allem an einem Datum festgemacht werden: dem 26. Oktober 1825. An diesem Tag öffnete der Erie-Kanal, der den Atlantik und die Region um die Großen Seen erstmals durch einen Wasserweg verband. New Yorks wirtschaftliche Bedeutung nahm rapide zu. Und auch Greenpoint veränderte sich rasant.
New York ist die Stadt, die niemals so richtig schläft - das gilt auch für Greenpoint. Benno Schwinghammer/dpa-tmn
In Greenpoint gibt es die hippen, kleinen Läden, die junge Großstädter mit Stilbewusstsein so lieben. Jen Davis/NYC & Company/dpa-tmn
Greenpoint ist keine architektonische Schönheit, aber beliebt bei jungen Leuten. Jen Davis/NYC & Company/dpa-tmn
Geoffrey Cobb kennt Greenpoint gut - der irische Einwanderer lebt seit 30 Jahren in dem Viertel. Benno Schwinghammer/dpa-tmn
New Yorker erholen sich im Transmitter-Park in Greenpoint. Julienne Schaer/NYC & Company/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Entlang des East River und dem Newtown Creek, der Greenpoint von Queens trennt, siedelten sich Industrie an. Greenpoint wurde schmuddelig, der Newtown Creek ein Symbol für urbane Verunreinigung.
Das Image schien auch dazu beizutragen, Greenpoint im späten 20. Jahrhundert zu den «Nieren der Stadt» zu machen. Seitdem steht am Rand des Viertels die größte Kläranlage New Yorks, die das Abwasser von mehr als einer Million Menschen reinigt. Die Bürger Greenpoints wehrten sich gegen den Bau, doch der kam trotzdem.
Die Entwicklung Greenpoints war nicht mehr aufzuhalten. Die Bewohner aus dem deutlich teureren Manhattan kamen ins Viertel und vertrieben viele Alteingesessene. Auch wenn sich die bis heute größtenteils polnische Bevölkerung gehalten hat.
Ein Anziehungspunkt für junge Menschen
«Absolut verrückt» sei der Anstieg der Preise für Wohnungen und Häuser, sagt Experte Geoffrey Cobb. Die Preistreiber, die er ausgemacht hat, sind aus fast allen Teilen der Nachbarschaft zu sehen: Die Apartmenthochhäuser am East River, die wie «verdammte Pilze nach dem Regen» in den Greenpointer Himmel steigen.
Der Wandel gehört zu New York. Das weiß auch Geoffrey Cobb und mag diesen «coolen Ort», zu dem sich sein Stadtteil gemausert hat. Das habe halt nur zur Folge, dass es immer schwieriger werde, in Greenpoint sesshaft zu werden. Das Viertel dürfe nicht nur Durchlaufstation für junge Erwachsene werden.
Für diese allerdings wird Greenpoint nach den Corona-Beschränkungen weiter Anlaufpunkt bleiben. Sei es nun draußen im Park, bei den zahlreichen Kulturfesten und Konzerten, beim legendären Fischladen «Greenpoint Fish & Lobster», zwischen zahlreichen Spielautomaten in der Waschsalon-Bar «Sunshine Laundromat» oder dem Pizza-Hotspot «Paulie Gee's». Die schmuddeligen Tage sind vorbei.
New York
Einreise und Corona-Lage: Touristische Reisen in die USA sind aufgrund der Einreisesperre nach wie vor nicht möglich. Daher rät das Auswärtige Amt von Urlaubsreisen in die USA ab. Das Land ist allerdings kein Corona-Risikogebiet mehr.
Informationen: NYC & Company c/o Aviareps Tourism, Josephspitalstraße 15, 80331 München (E-Mail: , nycgo.com).
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